Wines and other drinks of Tour de France 2018. Stage 15: Millau — Carcassonne

Yesterday’s stage was rather boring, at least until the final climb to the finish. The GC-teams cannot let this happen again. The riders in a breakaway may not be a threat to the top three riders. But for those who hope to finish within the top ten, riding like this can be a problem.

It was a bit fun to follow the stage on French TV. The final climb has been given the name Montée Laurent Jalabert. He had a spectacular win here in 1995, and he is from the area. Laurent Jalabert has been part of French TV’s Tour de France team as long as I have been following the race on French TV. They did of course show Laurent Jalabert’s win in 1995, and a TV-interview with a twenty some years younger Laurent Jalabert after the win. He was slightly embarrassed when Marion Rousse,  former French cycling champion, a beautyful young lady who is now expert commentator on French TV, said that he was just as handsome now, as he was then. But she added that she was only four years old when Laurent Jalabert won the stage, and that she did not remember it. But Laurent Jalabert got more embarrassed when Thomas Voeckler, who is now a reporter on motorcycle for French TV, started to tell how Laurent Jalabert was his hero, and that he used all his savings to get the same equipment as Laurent Jalabert had. “You have never told me this before”, said Laurent Jalabert. “No. You were a legend and a great hero, and I could not tell you”, replied Thomas Voeckler. “But now we are colleagues, so now I can tell you.”

Peter Sagan tweeted this, after the stage:

“All day in the break was a bit boring because I thought I was going to be dropped in the final climb. So, I focused on the last 5km and tried to go for the win. I didn’t make it but finished 4th. Still a long way to Paris…”

He did not seem too disappointed with his fourth place. Peter Sagan can be at the top on almost any stage.

Today it is another hilly stage. But the last part is a descent, and the finish is rather flat. It is a slight ascent the last kilometer, around 2%. I would have said that this could make this finish a bit too hard for some of the most typical sprinters. But the most typical sprinters are all out of the race, so this is no longer an issue. I would not be surprised if Peter Sagan will win this stage.

They have made a hard tour this year. Often, when the Alps are before the Pyrenees, they do not include too hard stages in the Alps, to ensure that the riders are not too exhausted when they come to the Pyrenees. If the Pyrenees are first, they usually do not include the hardest Pyrenees stages. But not this year. There were three very hard stages in the Alps. Often there are some flat “recovery” stages between the Alps and the Pyrenees.  But this year, it is only one flat stage.

The organiser has given priority to mountains over wine this year. They are circumventing some of the interesting wine areas that could have been included in a stage from Millau to Carcassonne.

If you like Roquefort cheese, you can bring some from the start. I have to admit that blue cheese is not my favorite. I like small quantities, like a piece as part of a cheese platter at a restaurant. But I never buy it, if I have not planned to use it when cooking. I know that if I buy this cheese, it will be resting in the fridge for too long time, without being eaten. Roquefort is made from sheep’s milk, and it must be stored in caves in the Roquefort area. All the caves are in use, meaning that production cannot be increased. Anyone can of course make blue cheese from sheep’s milk and store it in caves. But they cannot call this cheese Roquefort, just as we cannot call a sparkling wine made outside of Champagne, Champagne.

France had a region reform in 2016. It was 27 regions, now this is reduced to 18, including five overseas regions, which is some kind of a more politically correct term for colonies. What was Languedoc-Roussillon has merged with what was Midi-Pyrénées to the region Occitanie. The enitre stage today is in the region Occitanie. On the level below, there are 96 departements, and then 36.000 communes. In addition to that, there are cantons, and in the major cities there are arrondissements. I have tried to understand the administrative structure in France, and the distribution of competence among the various levels, but I have given up.

Some has argued that they could go further, and that two regions should be enough, divided according to what is really important: One region where they call the bread or cake, whatever you prefer, made from the same dough as croissants, with small pieces of chocolate, for Pain au Chocolat, and one region where they prefer to call it Chocolatine. We are now going from the Pain au Chocolat region to the Chocolatine region.

We can include some more food. Many cities in South-Western France claim to be the capital of cassoulet, among them Carcassonne, where they have a Cassoulet Academy. Cassoulet is a stew with dried white beans and meat as the main ingredients. What kind of meat, can vary from one place to another.

We must have some wine. Carcassone is located in, or at least close to Corbières. Even if the old region Languedoc-Roussillon has merged with what was Midi-Pyrénées , there are good reasons to maintain Languedoc-Roussillon as a wine region of its own. In Corbières they mainly make red wine. It is the area where they have the largest wine production in Languedoc-Roussillon. Corbières is divieded into ten designated areas:

  1. Montagne d’Alaric
  2. Saint Victor
  3. Fontfroide
  4. Queribus
  5. Termenès
  6. Lézignan
  7. Lagrasse
  8. Sigean
  9. Durban
  10. Serviès

Boutenac, that was such a designated area, got its own AOP-status in 2005, as AOP Courberes-Boutenac.

I have been mentioning chocolate. If we want to have a good wine with chocolate, and then I am mainly thinking of dark chocolate, we have to go a bit further south, to the district Maury in Roussillon, where the most well known producer is Mas Amiel. This is my favorite wine to chocolate, and I know that some very good patisseurs share this opinion.

Tomorrow is a very well deserved rest day. I am sure many riders are looking forward to this rest day, before the Pyrenees.

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Wines and other drinks of Tour de France 2018. Stage 14: Saint-Paul-Trois-Châteaux — Mende

Maybe yesterday’s stage gave an indication of what we can expect on flat stages with only a few sprinters left: A breakaway will not get much time, so it will not be too hard for the peloton to catch the breakaway.

Today’s stage is hilly. It starts with a modereate ascent, and ends with the climb up to la Croix Neuve, finishing at the airstrip on the top. It is a climb often callen  La Montée Laurent Jalabert (Laurent Jalabert is from Mende, and had a spectacular win here). It is 3 km, with an average ascent of 10,1%, with 13% at the steepest part. In 2015 it was a finish up here. The two French riders Thibaut Pinot and Romain Bardet were leading, and were looking at each other wating to see who would attack first. The French commentators were talking about a double French. Then came the British rider Steve Cummings, cycling for the South-African team MTN-Qhubeka. They were cycling with orange helmets, to celebrate Nelson Mandela’s birthday. He passed the two French riders, and won the stage. This gave MTN-Qhubekas their first grand tour victory, on the Mandela day. The French commentators were very disappointed.

Who will be the favorite today? It is hard to say. I has been thinking that this could be a stage for Vincenzo Nibali, but he is out of the race with injuries. Geraint Thomas has demontrated that he is good at sprinting uphill. Maybe Greg van Avermaet can be another candidate.

We start in Rhône. Saint-Paul-Trois-Châteaux is located in Tricastin. Coteaux de Tricastin was I wine I used to drink when I was young. When we drank red wine, it was often wines from lesser known areas in Southern Rhône. We did not know were it came from, and we did not really care. What was important to us was that we liked the wine, and that it was (relatively) cheap.

In France, people associate Tricastin with the atomic power plant located there. There has been some problems with the power plant, and the wine producers do not like to be associated with it. The name of the wine appellation has for this reason been changed to AOP Grignan-les-Adhémar.

In Northern Rhône, the grape syrah is dominating. I Southern Rhône it is supplemented by grenache and some other grapes. These are grapes that must have a warmer climate than syrah, grapes that will not ripen in the north. The main grape, in addition to syrah, is grenache. It is an originally Spanish grape, were it is namend granacha. It gives the wine body and alcohol, but not very much structure. The high alcohol makes it good grape for producing sweet wines and fortified wines. I find that wines with 100% grenache often will have a jam character. But syrah and grenache are two grapes that complement each other.

The landscape opens up and get wider south of Avignon. We have what is called the Pre-Alps or Alpilles to the east, with for instance Mont Ventoux. But the landscape is flatter, and is no longer a valley. We are in the Rhône delta. There is a plateau here, that goes a bit out in the sea. At the edge, it goes down to several thousand meters. This is the remains of an old, collapsed mountain chain. The bay is called Golfe de Lion. I had hoped that it had something to do with lions, and that it was an interesting story behind this. But it is Golf of Lyon, which is not as interesting. This picture from Google Earth shows how it is under water in the bay.

The Rhône delta, the wet area Camargue and most of Languedoc are built by what is carried by Rhône and other rivers, and maybe ice, that have been deposited at the plateau. Rhône is one of the large rivers in Europe. I have read that it carries 2 mill tons of loose gravel, sand etc each year, which should be the equivialent of 50 truckloads a day, that are deposited where the stream slows down as the river widens out. If it had not been for the plateau, it would have been transported out to deep sea.

The soil is different in Southern Rhône, compared to the north. And it is warmer.

As in many large and good wine regions, the classification of Rhône wines i hierachical. The basic classificataion is  AOP Côtes du Rhône. Some areas where they produce higher quality, are classified as Côtes du Rhône Village. At yet a higher level, the wines can be classified as  Côtes du Rhône Village with the name of the commune added, as in for instance . Côtes du Rhône Village Laudun. At the top level, they have their own crus, meaning their own AOP-classification. In the Southern Rhône, the most well known is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, located between Avignon and Orange. All the classified areas in Northern Rhône are separate crus with their own AOP. Formally they are equal, but some are more equal than others.

In AOP Grignan-les-Adhémar they produce mainly red wine with syrah and grenache as the primary grapes. It must be minimum 10% of each, but there cannot be more than 80% of one grape. It can be up to 30% of the secondary grapes Cinsault, Mourvèdre or Carignan, but no more than 15% of any of them.

They also produce some white wine, with grenache blanc, roussanne, clairete blanc, marsanne and viognier. It cannot be more than 60% of one grape.

Differencet soil and variations in the grape blends, means that the wines can vary a lot.

On the other side of the Rhône, on the right bank, is Côtes du Vivarais. This is also mainly a red wine area. It must be minimum 30% grenache and minimum 40% syrah. It could be up to 10% carignan in wines harvested in 2017 or earlier. This has been changed, so from 2018 there can be up to 10% cinsault.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, located between Orange and Avignon, is the most well known cru in Southern Rhône. They can use as many as 18 different grapes. Grenache is usually the dominating grape, blended with syrah and mourvedre.

We cannot cover all the classified areas in Rhône. But I will include two areas across the Rhône. Lirac and Tavel. Lirac is mainly a red wine area, where the red wines are made with the same grape blend as in other areas in Southern Rhône. It must be minimum 40% grenache, minimum 25% (together) of syrah and mourvedre, and maximum 10% of cinsault and carignan. The soil is a bit similar to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is less known than Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and for this reason usually more reasonably priced. Give it a try.

In Tavel they produce only rosé. They use mainly grenache and cinsault, but also some syrah and mourvedre. The producers in Tavel often say that in other classified areas, red wine is the main product and the best grapes go into the red wine. But in Tavel, they produce only rosé, and their best grapes are used for the rosé. Rosé from Tavel is often darker and more tasty than most other rosés. When we are in France in the summer, we drink a lot of rosé. When it is hot, we prefer rosé over red wine. We often drink rosé from Tavel with food with which we usually would drink red wine. When we are in the area, we often visit our favorite producer, Chateau d’Aqueria, and buy a case or two of their rosé.

Rhône is only the start. We do not often hear about wines from Ardeche. But many of the classified wine areas on the right bank of Rhône, both north and south, are in Ardeche. Most quality wines from Ardeche are classified and sold as Rhône wines. But I will mention some wines from Ardeche that are not classified as Rhône wines.

When I am at a good restaurant, I often buy their tasting menu, with wine pairing. I prefer to have a glass of selected wine with each course, rather than to buy a bottle as a compromise for the entire, or at least a large part of the menu. They know their food and their wines, and will often make better and more interesting choices than I would have done. At a very good, small one star restaurant in Paris Qui Plume la Lune, we got two very good white wines from Ardeche. One was a Grande Ardèche 2009, from the well known Burgundy producer Louis Latour. They had been looking for an area where they could produce a good chardonnay at lower cost than in Burgundy, and in 1979 they had chosen Ardeche. This is really one of the better chardonnays I have tasted, produced outside of Burgundy.

The other wine was produced by Sylvain Bock, who produce nature wine. They use no sulphur or other chemicals in any stages of the production. The wine had the rather strange name Ne fais pas sans blanc”. It was made with 2/3 chardonnay and 1/3 grenache blanc.

These are reasonably priced wines, that give very good value for money.

To stage 4, I mentioned the law saying that from Januray 1 2016, the wine producing areas cannot be expanded. This means that they cannot, or at least they will need a license to develop a promising wine producing area as Ardeche.

The stage ends in Mende, in the departement Lozere. Lozere is the least densly populated departement in France. I have been searching for local wines when I have been in Lozere. But I have so far not found a wine I will recommend. Get some wines at the start of this stage.

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Wines and other drinks of Tour de France 2018. Stage 13: Bourg d’Oisans — Valence

Five riders sprinting for the stage win at the top of Alpe d’Huez after a very hard stage, was not what I had expected. Geraint Thomas seems to be the better sprinter among these riders. I do not know how fast he was riding. But at the end of stage 11, when i passed Mike Nieve, he acellerated from 31 km/h to 41 km/h. I find it hard to come up to 40 km/h when it is flat, without having cycled over two hard mountains first. If Chris Froome shall win the tour, it will be a challenge for Sky to let him take two minutes on Geraint Thomas without having it look like they are faking. Tom Dumoulin is strong. But he does not have a team as strong as Sky. He does not have a rider like Geraint Thomas to help him.

Today’s stage  is a stage where the sprinters can excel again. But there are almost none of them left. The majority of them has either abandoned the race, or have finished outside the time limit.

With so many sprinters out of the competition, it can be yet another race. It is the sprint teams that usually will close the gap to a breakaway, to get a bunch sprint. If they do not have anyone left for the sprint, why should they use energy to catch a breakaway? Without the sprinters, it will be more important to get someone in the breakaway. For the GC-contenders, a stage win is not as important as for the teams and riders who are mainly competing for stage wins. If a rider who is an hour behind in the general classification should win a stage with a margin of a few minutes, it is not a threat to them in the competition for the general classification.

We are finally coming into some wine districts. The stage starts in Bourg d’Oisans, at the foot of Alpe d’Huez, and ends in Valence in the Rhône valley.

When discussing Rhône wines, it is common to divide the Rhône valley in two parts. The southern Rhône, and northern Rhône, or Côtes du Rhône Méridionales and Côtes du Rhône Septentrionales as they say in France. Valence is at the southern end of the northern Rhône, which is the part from Valence to Vienne, with Côte Rôtie as the most northern appellation. Tomorrow, the stage will start at the northern end of southern Rhône. It will be wines from northern Rhône today, and southern Rhône tomorrow.

The Rhône valley is a rift valley between the Alps and the Massif Central. The geology on the two sides of the river are quite different. We can note that in the northern Rhône, the more interesting wine areas are on the western side, or the right bank, as they say in France. The concept of right bank and left bank is not very difficult, as long as you know in which direction the river flows. It is the right and left side when looking or going downstream. Hermitage and Crozes Hermitage are exeptions, as they are good wine areas on the left bank. But here the river has found a new way not following the rift. Geologically, they belong to the right bank.

In the Rhône valley, there can be hard winds. Mainly in the winter, but also in the summer. It is the Mistral a wind coming down from the mountains, that blows down the valley. I was cycling the ViaRhona route two years ago. When cycling from Lyon to Valence, I had this wind. But I had it mainly as tailwind, and sometimes at cross wind. I wanted to visit Montèlimar, and then I had to make a turn and cycle to the north and got it has headwind. I would have had a hard day on the bike if I had had this headwind all the day.

The riders come into the Rhône valley from a side valley, and will not be affected by any Mistral winds before the finish. I like to mention the excellent hotel/restaurant Maison Pic in Valence. It is a three star restaurant, and at least the last time I checked, it was the only three star restaurant with a female chef. Eating at three star restaurants is expensive. And the hotel is not a budget hotel. But we had an unforgettable experience and have good and lasting memories from this place.

We can start with the wines from the areas close to Valence: Saint-Péray. It is actually across the river from Valence. The area is protected from the cold winds from the north. Most of us think of Rhône as a red wine district. But in Saint-Péray, they produce white wines from the grapes marsanne, rousanne and bergeron. 70% of the production is sparkling sparkling wine, made by the traditional method, as in Champagne. In the 19th century, sparkling wine from Saint-Péray was more popular than champagne, but its popularity has faded. Napoleon Bonaparte said that his first experience with wine was when he, as a young cadette in Valance, was drinking Saint-Péray.

If we go a bit further north, we find the twin towns Tournon sur Rhône at the right bank, and Tain Hermitage on the left bank.

If they are twin towns, they are by no means identical twins. On the surface, Tournon sur Rhône seems to be the more interesting of the two, with a charming old town (but with a too large parking lot towards the river, destroying the riverside). But Tain Hermitage has more to offer. Here we find the wine areas Hermitage og Crozes Hermitage.

Hermitage is one of the great, French wines. It is a tanninic, masculine wine that can be and should be stored for some years. It is said that it can be stored for 40 years. Syrah, a grape originating from the northern Rhône, is the dominating grape. It is allowed to use some white grapes in the wine, but it is not done very much anymore. Crozes Hermitage is the little brother, that is less expensive.

There is also a white Hermitage, produced from roussanne and marsanne grapes. This grapes give an aromatic wine. White Hermitage should also be stored, and can be stored for 15 years.

In addition the these wine areas, Tain Hermitage is the home of Valrhona chocolate, one of the best quality chocolate one can get. Some years ago, I had the pleasure of attending a four days chocolate course at Valrhona. One thing I remember from when we were taken on a round in the production facilities, is that when other chocolate facotries were modernising, Valrhona bought their old equipment. They said that they could not get the same quality with modern, automated equipment as they could with older, manually controlled equipment, with good craftsmen.

We also had some wine tasting when in Tain Hermitage. I got the impression that the wine producers served better wines when Valrhona had booked a tasting for people attending some of their courses, than they would serve for a typical tourist tasting.

Across the river, around Tournon sur Rhône, we find the wine areas Cornas and Saint-Joseph. Cornas is a red wine made with 100% syrah, and is an excellent wine. Saint Joseph does not have to be aged for as long time. It is said that people are drinking Saint Joseph while waiting for the Cornas to be ready to drink

Rhône wines are good with game, tasty meat low in fat. We usually have groose for dinner on the Boxing day. I usually serve either Cornas, or a Côte Rôtie for these dinners.

North of Saint Joseph, is Condrieu, a white wine district. Here they produce white wine from the grape Viognier. The best vioginer wines come from this area, which is also reflected in the price. Viognier usually gives an aromatic white wine. I like it. It can be a bit to dominating with fish and other sea food. It is a white wine I prefer to serve with chichen and other white meat. The smallest appellation in France, Chateau Grillet, is located within Condrieu. It is an appellation that covers only one producer.

When we are that far north, we must include Côte-Rôtie, an excellent red wine that I like to serve with groose and other tasty game.

The best Rhône wines come from the northern part. They are also the most expensive Rhône wines, which shuold come as no surprise. But there are very good wines from the southern Rhône as well. We will come back to some of them tomorrow.

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Wines and other drinks of Tour de France 2018. Stage 12: Bourg-Saint-Maurice Les Arcs — Alpe d’Huez

The classification after yesterday’s stage looks more like what I had expected after Tuesday’s stage, with the GC-contenders within a not too large time span. Sky demonstrated strength when Geraint Thomas could win the stage and get the yellow jersey, at the same time as Chris Froome seems to be in control. But it must have been bitter for Mike Nieve to be passed a few hundred meters before the finish, after having led the stage as he did.

Marcel Kittel, Mark Cavendish and Mark Renshaw finished outside the time limit, and are out of the race. It seems that Rik Zabel was told by the team that Marcel Kittel did not have a chance, and to get himself to the finish within the time limit, so that the team would not loose two riders. He managed to do so with a one second margin.

Today’s stage is just as brutal. It starts with a moderate descent, but this is only some teasing before the climbs. They have  Col de Madeleine (HC), then Lancets de Montvernier (2 cat) as an intermdeiate klimb, before Col de la Croix de Fer (HC), and then a mountain top finish at Alpe d’Huez (HC). The stage is longer than yesterday’s stage. But there are no flat sections where riders can “relax” and catch up. The sprinters who were at their limits yesterday, may struggle today. The sprinters who survive, will get another chance to show off tomorrow.

Continue reading Wines and other drinks of Tour de France 2018. Stage 12: Bourg-Saint-Maurice Les Arcs — Alpe d’Huez

Wines and other drinks of Tour de France 2018. Stage 11: Albertville — La Rosière Espace San Bernardo

I had not expected that Greg van Avermaet should be that strong on yesterday’s mountain stage, and was surprised that he gained 1.29 on Chris Froome and other GC-contenders.

Today’s stage, stage 11, is short and hard. It is “only” 108,5 km. For most of us, 108,5 km is a good day’s ride. But for the TdF-riders it is short. It goes right into a short climb, and then there are some 10 km om moderate ascent to the intermediate sprint. Then it is a HC, down from this, another HC, a little bit down, then a cat 2, down, and a mountain top finish on a cat 1. We can expect a lot of action.

On a stage like this, some riders often get problems finishing within the time limit. Yesterday, Dylan Groenewegen, Mark Cavendish and Marcel Kittel finished with a 28 seconds margin to the time limit. I can be harder today.

When it comes to wine, this is a best a difficult, and I could say dry stage. Yesterday I wrote than none of the vineyards in Savoie are located higher than 500 meters. Todays stage starts at 441 meter, climbs to 646 meter at the intermediate sprint, before the real climbing starts. Then the stage is at no point lower than 700 meters. There is no wine in such terrain.

If we had gone in the opposite direction out of Albertville, we could have found some wines. But this would mean going back to some of the areas that I covered yesterday.

It was a lack of planning on my side that I at least did not save the cheese for today. The stage is after all going through Beaufort. But there is no reason to repeat, just point to what I wrote yesterday.

There are many interesting wines from Savoie. The best I can say is to pick another wine from the areas covered yesterday. Tomorrow it will be even more difficult.

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Wines and other drinks of Tour de France 2018. Stage 10: Annecy — Le Grand-Bornand

It is always a bit fun to pick an outsider that many has written off, among the favourites, and he wins, like John Degenkolb on stage 9. It was no surprise that Greg van Avermaet and Peter Sagan got good results. And it was sad to see Richie Porte crash out of the race with injuries once again.

It is in many ways another Tour de France that starts today, with stage 10. After cobbles and mainly flat stages, the riders will meet the mountains. The riders may react differently to the rest day. So will be refreshed and fit for fight, others will need some time to start up and get the engine going.

Toms Skujins, who will be riding in the polka dot “King of the mountains” jersey, has 6 points. On today’s stage, a rider can, at least in theory, get 51 points, 1 for the cat 4 climb, 10 on each of the three cat 1 and 20 on the HC climb.

I include the profile of today’s stage, the first mountain stage.

It is always a challenge to find wine to the mountain stages. When searching for wines along the Tour de France stages, I have found some hidden treasures, like the wines of Savoie. I knew nothing about them, had not heard of them and had of course not tasted them before I started this. We can find some really good wines in Savoie.

In an article about Savoie in the French wine magazine La Revue du Vins de France they write that Savoie is one of the most difficult wine regions to learn to know. It is complicated with many grapes and crus, the production is small, the distribution is not very good and the best wines are almost secret.

A wine I like is Chignin made from Jaquière. It is a wine that get me to think of mountains. But it is an illusion. The wines are produced in the valleys, not in the mountains. No vineyard is higher than 500 meters above sea level. It is not a great and very complex wine, but it is fresh, fruity with moderate acidity.

Chignin is, according to my Vine Atlas, regarded as the wine capital in Savoie. It is because of the quality, not the quantity.

The area Cru Chignin-Bergeron is regarded the best area. But the production is limited. Only 315 hl white wine, or 50.000 bottles a year.

North of Chignin is Cru Saint-Jeoire-Prieuré. It is 20 ha and the production is around 460 hl or 70.000 bottles a year.

Even further north is the even smaller Cru Monterminod, where they produce150 hl or 22.500 bottles a year. This is a very sought after wine.

To the west, there are two larger areas, Cru Apremont and Cru Abymes, where they produce 26.000 and 20.000 hl a year.

To put the production figures in perspective. It is produced ca 2,1 mill hl champagne and 6,8 mill hl Bordeaux wine a year.

Another wine is Rousette de Savoie, made from the grape Rousette (which is also called Altesse). It is a grape the can give high acidity, citrus and fruitiness, with some spicy notes. Wine that is labelled Rousette de Savoie without another appellation, can have up to 50% Chardonnay. But if it is labelled Altesse, it shall be made from 100%  Rousette/Altesse. It is a wine that is at its best after 2–3 years.

In Combe de Savoie they produce red wine from the local grape MondeuseLa Revue du Vins de France calls this area La terre des grands rouges.

I do not think I am the only one who had overlooked Savoie wines. Give them a try!

Mountain areas that are not suited for wine production are often good for grassing, meaning production of milk, and then cheese. As wine production is a method to conserve grape juice, cheese production is a method to conserve milk. They produce many good cheeses in Savoie and the neighboring department Haut Savoie.

The first cheese I will mention is Tomme de Savoie. It is a cheese that can vary a lot from one producer to another, and with the seasons. It is made from cow milk. There is also one low fat version, which is as far as I know the only AOP-classified low fat cheese.

The other cheese is Beaufort. It is a hard cheese a bit similar to Gruyere. It is often said to be the best among these cheeses. I am not sure that the producers of Comté will agree on that. There is a variation called Beaufort d’Alpage, which can only be made in the summer, when the cows are grassing in the mountains. If the cheese is made from milk from cows that have been grassing higher than 1500, it can be called Chalets d’Alpage. Cheese made in the winter, when the cows are fed on hay, is paler.

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Wines and other drinks of Tour de France 2018. Stage 9: Arras Citadelle — Roubaix

Another win for Dylan Groenewegen. Dan Martin lost time after the crash. Fernando Gaviria and André Greipel who finished second and third, were relegated, and I did not really get why it happened.

Stage 9 is cobbles, with many cobbled stretches that should be known from Paris Roubaix. But as they change the course a bit from year to year, it may not be the stretches that they were riding this year. The finish is not on the famous velodrome in Roubaix, but just outside of it.

Cobbled stages are not for the light climbers. Tour de France has classified it as “hilly”, which in reality it is not. There is not a single classicied climb. But hilly is probably the closest they have among the categories they use. It was on a cobbled stretch Chris Froome crashed in 2010, causing him to abandon the race. I hope this will not happen for any riders. It should not be injuries that should decide the race, but we knows it sometimes happens.

The stage will probably not be a stage for the typical sprinters either. I guess it will be a stage for some of the classics riders, who may as well be good sprinters, or the strong spirnters. Peter Sagan won Paris Roubaix this year, and he can of course win on this trerrain again. Greg van Avermaet is still a candidate. He has won Paris-Roubaix before. And it could as well be the Norwegians Alexander Kristoff or Edvald Boasson Hagen. When comparing with Paris — Roubaix, we have to bear in mind that this classic is around 250 km long, today’s stage is 156,5 km, almost 100 km shorter than Paris — Roubaix. Edvald Boasson Hagen has often faded near the end of the long classics, maybe this shorter stage will suit him better. As a Norwegian, I can at least hope for that. I am also thinking of John Debenkolb as a favourite for this stage.

We are in the department Nord pas de Calais, in the region now named Haut de Francewhich is former Nord and Picardie. This is French Flanders, and an area with a rich beer culture. A little more than five years ago, on July  18 2013, the French Senate decided to give beer in this area status as  “patrimoine culturel, gastronomique et paysager protégé de la France”. I do not know what the practical significance of such a staus will be — if any.

100 years ago, there were around 2.000 breweries in the area. The last time I checked, it was 41.

For 100 år siden var det omtrent 2.000 bryggerier i området. I dag er det 41.  The oraganisaion  L’Echappée Bière it organising beer and gastronomy tours in Northern France and Belgium.

We are close to, but not over the Belgian border. I choose to include a “border beer”, that we find a bit east of today’s stage. Cuvee_des_Jonquilles Brasserie su Baron is located in the small town  Gussignies, at the Belgian border. The brewery is only 200 meters from the border. The brewery is connected to a restaurant with the same name. It is their, La Cuvée des Jonquilles that has gotten many prizes ans a lot of attention, and the authors of  1001 Beers You Must Try before You Die think you should try before you die.

A few kilometres east of where the riders enter the first cobble stretch, we find the tow Jenlain, WIMG_1771_DxO where we find the brewery Brasserie-Duyck. has been given the honour of reviving Bière de Garde. Bière de Garde, beer to store, was traditionally brewed at farms in the winter and spring, to be stored for the summer. Beer was brewes for imediate consumption. But in the summer, it was too warm for brewing. That is why they brewed a beer that could be stored until it again for season for brewing. It is the same as with the Belgian Saisson.

Brasserie-Duyck sells their beer under the label Jenlain. It was sold in champagne bottles from around 1950. In 1968, they started to sell it as Jenlain Ambrée. At the time french breweries were about to give up traditional brewing and switch to bottom fermented beer, Jenlain Ambré became a cult beer among students in Lille, and sale started to increase. It is a classic bière de Garde, and among the  1001 Beers You Must Try before You Die. The authors mean that you should also try Jenlain Blonde, som a ighter version of Bière de Garde. They also recommend their Christmas beer, but we are a bit out of seaseon for this on.

Their prestige beer is Jenlain Or [gold], also a blonde. We can also include their Éclats d’Ambrée, a vintage beer.

Jenlain is a beer with good distribution, at least in France. It can be found in supermarkets all over France.

A little east of the intermediary sprint, is the small town Hordain, and in this town we find Brasserie la Choulette. Their La bière des Sans Culottes er is another Bière de Garde among the 1001 Beers You Must Try before You Die. They also have a fruitbeer, and the authors of this book think we must try their Framboise (raspberry) before we die. This is a beer from La Choulette that I have not tried.

Tomorrow is a rest day.

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Wines and other drinks of Tour de France 2018. Stage 8: Dreux — Amiens Métropole

It is impossible to predict which sprinter will have the day, and win in the end. It was nor surprise that Dyelan Groenewegen should win, or that Peter Sagen once again was up there, collecting points.

Stage 8 is another flat stage. It may be wind at the end, but it will probably be a bunch sprint, the last opportunity for the sprinters for some time. It is 14th of July, the Bastille day, the day on which all french cyclists are dreming of winning a stage in Tour de France. Maybe it can be Arnaud Demare today?

As I mentioned yesterday, they have circumvented Calvados this year. But we do a little detour to Calvados. The production areas are west of today’s stage.

The apple brandy cavados is made by distiling cider. Normandy they of course produce cider that is not distilled to calvados, but we will not drink more cider. We can also add that they produce apple brandy many places. But only apple brandy produced in Calvados, from apples grown in Calvados in accordance with the rules and regulations for calvados can be labeled “calvados”. The rest is just apple brandy

Apples are not just apples. They grow more than 200 varieties in Normandy, and it is not unusual that a producer in Calvaodos use more than 100 specified varieties of apples in their production. Some can be sweet, some can be bitter and some can be sour, and everything in between.

There are three AOP classified areas in Calvados. AOP calvados is the largest, and includes the subappelations. The two others are   AOP calvados Pays d’Auge,  and AOP calvados Domfrontais that we visited yesterday..

Pays d’Auge is regarded as the best appelataion. In AOP calvados Pays d’Auge the criterias are stricter than for AOP Calvados. It must be double distillation in  alembic pot stills, while they in AOC calvados can have a more industrialised prodution in continuous coloumns.

In Domfrontais there is, as mentioned yesterday, a long tradition for pear growing. AOP calvados Domfrontais shall contain at least 30% pear, and it must be stored at least three years in oak barrels. It makes a fruity calvados.

Calvados must be stored at least two years in oak barrels before it can be bottled and sold as calvados. But often it is stored much longer. Much calvados is bleded from several vintages. If an age is given at the label, it must be the age of the youngest calvados in the blend. There are other designations used to indicate age. These are

Calvados skal lagres i minst to år på eikefat før den tappes og selges. Men ofte lagres den mye lenger. Mye calvados er blend fra flere årganger og sikkert flere produsenter. Hvis det angis alder skal det være alderen på den yngste calvadosen som angis. Man kan også bruke andre betegnelser som refererer til alder. Dette er:

  • Fine”, “Trois étoiles ***”, “Trois pommes”— at least tow years old.
  • Vieux”, “Réserve”— at least three years old.
  • V.O.” “VO”, “Vieille Réserve”, “V.S.O.P.” “VSOP”— at least four years old.
  • Extra”, “X.O.” “XO”, “Napoléon”, “Hors d’Age” “Age Inconnu”— at least six years old, but often much older.

The fruit is more prominent in younger calvados, while the older taste more like old brandy.

We can get singel vintage singel calvados, made in the best years.

I was in Amiens earlier this summer, when I was travelling by train and bicycle in Europe. I asked for local beer, but none of the places I visited had anything. They were mainly serving belgian beer such as Leffe, and boring beer such as Heineken. Leffe is a good beer, but local beers are more interesting. At my hotel, they had a souvenir pack of three bottles of beer from the local brewery Charles & Vianney. But they did not have it in the bar. When cycling, I do not want to add a few bottles of beer (or wine) to my luggage. So I did not get a chance to taste it.

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Wines and other drinks of Tour de France 2018. Stage 7: Fougères — Chartres

Dan Martin, not a surprise that he won yesterday’s stage. He was not my favourite, but we cannot list all possible winners at favourites. There were no surprises in the results of yesterday’s stage.

Stage 7 is another flat stage, and it will probably be another bunch sprint.

A large part of this stage is in le Parc naturel régional Normandie-Maine. It seems to be mainly forest in the border area between Loire and Normandy. I find information about hiking and cycling in the area, but not very much about regional products. For one who is searching for local drinks and food, it seems to be a kind of “neither nor” zone.

I find something called  La Route du Poiré, the route of pears. It includes a pear museum and a cider museum, and a little about Calvados. It indicates that pears and pear products is the regions speciaity. But I have not found much information on this either.

Stage 7 and 8 do in a way circumvent the main production area for Calvados. If we go a bit north of today’s stage, we come to the town Domfront, which has given the name to the calvados-appelation AOP calvados Domfrontois, which shall include at least 30% of pears and shall be stored for at least three years in oak barrels. We could include this as a pear drink for today’s stage. We will come back to calvados tomorrow.

Where they make apple- and pear brandy, they of course also produce cider. In my comment to stage 5, I said that I often find pear cider to be too sweet. I have to step a bit back on this. A few days ago I got served the pear cider NV Pacory Poiré from  Domfront, to the dessert at the excellent restaurant Noa in Tallinn (Estonia). It was part of the wine pairing. It was very good with the dessert. The sommelier had found many good and interesting wines to this wine pairing. We had some interesting conversations about the wines and his choices. I like menus with wine pairing at good restaurants. They often include wines, and sometimes other drinks, that I do not know, and would never have ordered. I would not have ordees pear cider to the dessert. I have learned a lot and discovered many good wines from these wine pairings.

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Wines and other drinks of Tour de France 2018. Stage 6: Brest — Mûr de Bretagne Guerlédan

I held Greg van Avermaet, and not Peter Sagan as favourite on yesterday’s stage. But we never know with Peter Sagan. Antoher impressive win from him.

Stage 6 is another hilly stage. I have Greg van Avermaet and Vincenzo Nibali as my favourites. But as I just wrote: We never know with Peter Sagan. He may do it again.

I have chosen to include the profile for this stage as well.

When in this region, we will stick to celtic drinks, and it is mainly beer this time. They are brewing a lot of interesting beer in Brittany. They brew interesting beer many other places as well. If I should be honest, the micro breweries often make the same kind of beer, and there is not very much diffrence from one IPA to another. Being small does not always mean being good or the best. It is not without reason that some “micro breweries” have grown out of this category.

My main source for information on breton beer is the book  Deux siècles de bières en Bretagne, in addition to information I have found on the net, as well as tasting a number of breton beers..

The word bière seems to have had a kind of a detour into the French language. According to Larousse Dictionnaire Étymologique it comes from the Dutch bier, a word many of us know from the German word  Bier. When we find the same word in English Oxford Dictionary is ofte beter when it comes to etymology. According to Oxford Dictionary, the wod came to English from  West Germanic, meaning German and Dutch.  But the German word comes from the latin word biber, meaning a drink. This is again derived fro mthe latin word bibere, meaning to drink. The latin word has taken a detour via germanic languages, into th e mainly latin based French.

The word substituted the old word la cervoise, which was a kind of beer made without hops. I mention all this because many in Brittany seem to prefer the word  cervoise, which is basically the same word as the Breton korev and the  Welsh cwrw. Many will see that it is the same word as the Spanish cerveza and the Portugeese cerveja. We can add that it is cervesa in Catalan and Occitan.

In these days we are hearing a lot about problems with CO2, be it too much in the atmosphere causing global warming, or lack of CO2 for cleaning of water, brewing, etc. I will make som comments about brewing.

During the fermentation, sugar or starch produces alcohol and CO2. If kept under pressure, the CO2 will dissolve in the liquid, creating carbonic acid. In traditional brewing in casks, the CO2 creates the bubbles in our beer. In industrial brewing, CO2 is added in tanks, under pressure. The brewing industry have problems caused by lack of CO2. In craft brewing, the fermentaion, or rather the second fermentation is done in casks, bottles or cans, producing its own CO2, Buy crafts beer, or artisan biere as they say in French, and shortage of CO2 supply should not be a problem.

Back to Brittany and beer. We really do not know for how long time they have been brewing beer in Brittany. They have done so for some hundred years, but we do not know how many. At the beginning of the 19th centrury, there were many breweries. But as happened so many places, the brewing was industrialised and the beer standardised by the end of the century. At the end of the 20th century, traditional brewing had its rennaisance. In Brittany, it grew alongside breton nationalism and revitalisation of breton culture in general. The brewers were helped by the enthusiasm for breton traditions and breton culture, even when they had not learned their craft properly.

Brasserie Lancelot had their first beer ready July 12 1989. The first time I got served beer from  Lancelot was at a breton restaurant (in Aigues Mortes in Languedoc-Roussillon, a far distance form Brittany) I thought that Lancelot was a very good name for a product with celtic refernces. But the brewery was started by Bernard Lancelot. He had been working in the atomic industry, but wanted to do something else. He stared with bees, but the bees were destroyed by a parasite. He then turned to brewing.

The beer Lancelot is a golden beer. It is a top fermented unfiltered beer, with second fermentation in the bottle. The producer compares it with BelgianTrappist-beer. I do not know what the Trappist-beweris think of this comparision.Trappist is not a style or a type of beer. It only means that the beer has been brewed within a Trappist monastery according to the rather strict rules for Trappist beer. There are many types of Trappist beer, and not all of them are Belgian. It makes such comparisions a bit dubious.

During a hunt, the legendary breton king  Conan Mériadec saw an ermine beside a mud pond. Rather than to have its white fur dirty, the ermine walked in the direction of the hunters. This was the origin of the breton saying of rather die than to get dirty., and to the beer Blanche Hermine from Lancelot. Ermine is an animal that is emblematic of Brittany. The beer is a white wheat beer, rather low in alchol. A refreshing beer on a warm summer day.

Bonnets Rouges (the red hoods) is a beer made with elderberries, which give the beer its red colour and fruity taste. In 1675 the bretons revolted against the French king, who introduced new taxes without the consent of the breton parliament.  The rebels, insurgents or whatever you prefer to call them, used the red hood as a symbol of freedom. This beer is named after them.

The beer TeLenn Du, marks the celtic. It has a breton name, meaning black harp. The beer is made with buckwheat. It is brown, light and a bit sweet.

La Brasserie Artisanale Touken is a small brewery tat opened May 12 2007, that makes the beer  under the name Philomenn.

Philomenn is also inspired by Trappist beer. Aong other beers, they brew well known types as  Blonde and  Stout. I will also include  Philomenn Tourbée. Tourbée means peat. It has a smokey taste, from the drying of the malt. It reminded me a bit of Islay malt whisky, such as Laphroig, Talisker and Ardbeg.

Britt Brasserie de Bretagne is another well known breton brewery. It is one of the breton brweries that has a rather good distribution outside of Brittany.

Until the first time I visited Brittany, I had always been thinking of the Puffin as a typical Norwegian and Icelandic bird. But it can (or at least could) be found in large number in Brittany, and is a symbol of the region.

In Brittany, they do as their celtic brothers further to the west. They make whisky. There are three whisky distilleries in Bittany. Des Menhirs, Glann Ar Mor and Warenham. If French whisky is unknown to you, it was for me as well, until I started to search for breton drinks.

I bought a bottle of Eddu Silver from Des Menhirs at the breton shop Chemins de Bretagne in Paris. Unfortunately this shop no longer exists. According to the lady in the shop, this should be the reference for breton whisky. It is made from buckwheat, which is called eddu in breton, if I have got it right.

When I first tasted it, I was not too excited. Over the years I have tasted a number of whiskies, mainly scottish malt whisky, some irish whiskey, and some others, whisky made from barley. This breton whisky was fruity with no smokyness. Eddu tasted very different from scottish malt whisky.

I decided that I had to give Eddu a second chance. When we taste something with certain expectations, for instance of what a whisky should taste like, and these expectations are not met, we tend to get disappointed. The second time, when I tasted Eddu without these expectations, it was an interesting drink. But I still prefer a scottish malt if I want a glass of whisky.

When we are in Brittany and mention the revival of breton culture, we have to mention the musician Alan Stivell. Here he is performing the song Tri Martolod at Festival des Vieilles Charrues in the year 2000. Tri Martolod means three sailors. It is an old breton song, made popular by Alan Stivell. Three sailors are taken by the wind, ending up in New Foundland. There they meet a girl, who they, or at least one of them, thought they/he had met before. They had met at the market in Nantes, and he had promised her a ring. No, I do not understand the breton lyrics, but I have read a French translation.

I have not been in Brittany for some years. It is a region I would love to revisit.