Category Archives: Germany

Wine and some other drinks of Tour de France 2017: Stage 3. Verviers — Longwy

Marcel Kittel won a histoic stage win, as it was the first stage win in Tour de France on a bike with disc brakes

Stage 3 starts a bit outside of Liege, goes through Luxembourg and ends in France. The finish is uphill. Not more than a third category, but I think it will not be a stage for the typical sprinters.

This year it is 60 years since the Treaty of Rome was signed and the EEC was formed. March 25 1957, representatives from the six original countries, Belgium, Germany, France, Luxembourg and the Netherlands met where Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg met, in what is called Ouren on the German side and Lieler on the Luxembourg site, to sign the treaty. It is only a few kilometers southwest of the place the riders cross the border from Belgium in to Luxembourg.

Luxembourg is a small country, but has a central position in EU. They have the European Court of Justice, and currently the president of the EU commission, Jean-Claude Juncker. But as a wine country, it is rather unsignificant. In their “The World Atlas of Wine”, Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson have not given Luxembourg its own headline. But in the section on Mosel, they write some phrases about Luxembourg. But Tom Stevenson has included Luxembourg in his World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling wine.

I have one memory of Luxembourgian wine. Many years ago, we were driving into Luxembourg after having spent a few days in Champagne. Out of curiosity and with some trepidation, I ordered a bottle of Luxembourgian, sparkling wine for dinner. It was made by traditional method, and the person who served us assured us that it was good. After having been spoiled, by only drinking champagne for some days, it was a let down. I do not remember the wine, but I remember the disappointment. But it was more than 30 years ago, and things may have changed. According to Tom Stevenson, things have changed:

“Most Luxembourg sparkling wine used to be tank-method and very bland i style. However, the introduction of the Crémant de Luxembourg appellation in 1991 for traditional-method wines has improved standards significantly, and Luxembourg producers now make Crémant of much higher quality than many of their French Crémant colleagues.”

The production of sparkling wine in Luxembourg started in a way when the champagne house Mercier established a production in Luxembourg in 1885. They produced champagne. The regulations were probably not as strict then as they are now. They imported wine from Champagne, and the second fermentation took place in Luxembourg. By doing this, they could get covered by a custom treaty between Germany and Luxebourg, avoiding high duties on sparkling wine imported in bottles from France to Germany.

Tom Stevenson writes that the first sparkling wine made with traditional method was made by Bernard-Massard in 1921. I interpret this as this was the first wine made with grapes grown in Luxembourg, and a wine fulle made in Luxembourg. But even though they grow grapes in Luxembourg, they also produce a lot of wine from imprted grapes. Bernard-Massard also do this.

Bernard-Massard is, still according to Tom Stevenson, the only producer in Luxembourg with ambitions of getting an international reputation. But the producer who gets the highest score in his book, is Desom. I realise that I have to give Crémant de Luxembourg a second chance next time I am in Luxembourg. I do not think it will be easy to find Luxembourgian wine other places than in Luxembourg.

The wines produced in Luxembourg are mainly produced further east than today’s stage, at the west bank of the river Mosel, which constitutes the border between Luxembourg and Germany. I will jump a small, virtual boat and float downstrem Mosel, into Germany. There we can find some very ineresting wines.

When I was young, I used to drink a lot of semi dry Mosel wine, like: Reiler vom Heisenstein, Saar-Rieling and Piesporter. I think many around the same age have been drinking these wines too.

I had planned to write that Mosel is about as far north as it is possible to grow grapes for wine production, at least before we see the full effect of the climate change. But when doing research for this, I found that they are producing wine in the valley Ahr, north og Mosel. This was new to me. I was a bit surprised to learn that they are mainly producing red wine from Pinot Noir, or Spätburgunder as it is usually called in Germany. But we will stay in Mosel.

Mosel, or Moselle as it is called in France, and Musel in Luxembourgish, starts in the Massif de Vosges in France, near Ballon d’Alsace. It flows through the departement Lorraine. From where France, Luxembourg and Germany meet (at Shengen), it becomes the border river between Luxembourg and Germany, before it continues in Germany and flows out in the Rhine river in Koblenz. As the river flows through the Mosel valley, we can clearly see the effect of meandering. It is a beatuyful landscape, with small romantic towns like Bernkastel, and good wine. It is a good place to visit. I think I will cycle along the Mosel river from Ballon d’Alsace to Koblenz some time in the future.

We can start in Schengen, a name most people, at least in Europe, will think of as a treaty, and not a place. But it is a small town in Luxembourg. At the left bank of Mosel is Luxembourg, at the right bank Germany, the area called Obermosel. On German side they mainly frow a grape calle Elbling. I do not know the grape, but it is said to have a rather neutral character. It is mainly used for production of sekt. It is also grown in Luxembourg, along with Müller-Thurgau and Auxerrois. I Luxembourg chaptalising, meaning adding sugar to the must, quite common.

At Konz in Germany, the river Saar flows out in Mosel, and a bit further down, by Ruwer the river Ruwer is added. Both in Saar and Ruwer, they produce good riesling, but we will not go up these valleys. A bit down from Trier, by the small town Sellig, we enter Mittelmosel. It is from here to Zell, we find the good wines from Mosel.

In Mosel, as in many other places in Geramny, low sugar content in the grapes has lead to a production of semi dry wines. It seems like a paradox that low sugar level should lead to semi dry, and not dry wine. But low sugar gives low alcohol. Alcohol has a kind of sweetness. It does not really taste sweet, but it balances the acidity in the wine. In addition to that, it gives the wine body. Dry wines, low in alchol, tend to taste thin and sour. To compensate for low alcohol, they stopped the fermentation when it was still some sugar left. The fasion changed. The market wantet dry, white wines, and the semi dry German wines went out of fashion. The climate change has so far had positive effect in Mosel, and now they produce excellent, dry wines. Having said that, I will add: Semi dry white wines usually goes well with spicy food, Asian food and sushi.

The great wines from Mosel are made from riesling. But the riesling only ripen in ideal places, steep slopes facing south, where they get a lot of sun exposure. At the ideal places, the sun is also reflected from the river, up to the vineyards. Other plasces, they grow grapes like Müller-Thurgau and Sylvaner, which do not give as good wine as riesling.

Our first stop is Trittenheim. The best vineyard here is Apotheke. We continue to Piesport, the town that has given name to this part of Mittelmosel. Piesport is located in a curve in the river, with many south facing vineyards that create an amphi. The most well known and the best vineyard is Goldtröpfchen. Other well knwon vineyards are Domherr, Falkenberg, Gärtchen, Grafenberg, Günterslay, Hofberger, Kreuzwingert, Schubertslay and Treppchen. Further down the river, there is a hill on the left bank down to Minheim, a hill that protects the Piesport area from cold winds from east. After passing Minheim, we come to the area Wintrich and Kesten, where the vineyard Ohligsberg is the most well known. Piesport is used as a designation for all wines from the area, or as Grosslage i German. I do not think that there are many grapes from the famous vineyards in the generic Piesporter. The Piesporter from my youth was not a high quality wine. If it had been, I would not have had money to buy it. When I was young, the price of the wine was more important than the quality.

We continue downstream to Bernkastel. Here we find the most famous and best vineyard in Mosel: Doktor. Some say Bernkastel Doktor is the best vineyard in Germany. I do not know the vinyards well enough to say which is the better: Bernkastel Doktor or Erbach Markobrunn in Rheingau.

The grapes are grown in steep slopes. Most of the work must be done by hand.

If we compare Mosel and Rheigau, Mosel is “leaner”, and at their best more elegant. A good Mosel is an excellent wine.

If we continue downstream, we come to Graach and the vineyard Graacher Himmelreich. From here we come to Wehlen, and the vineyard Whelener Sonnenuhr. Further down is Zeltingen with Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. I include Reil further down. We have passed the more intesting part of Mosel. In my younger years I had many bottles of Reiler vom Heissen Stein.

I end in Zell, where they produce the wine Zeller Scwarze Katz, another wine I used to drink when I was young.

I have to admit that I have not been drinking very much Mosel wine in more recent year. But it is time to renew my relationship with these wines. I have noticed that the producer Markus Molitor, has high quality wines in many price segment.

If we continue down Mosel, we arrive in Koblenz, where it flows out in the Rhine at Deutsches Eck.

The circle is closed, and we are back where we were yesterday. We have to get back to the Tour. Those who are really fit may ride a bicyle. But it will be 225 km ride, which is too long for me. The Train from Koblenz to Luxembourg city takes 2 hours and 23 minutes. From there it is 36 km to today’s finish town. It is possible to continue by train, at least almost to the French border, but i have noe checked the schedule.

The stage ends in one of France’s rust belts. Here it used to be mining and industry. I was in the area where today’s stage ends, a few years ago. In Hussigny-Godbrange, the small town where the riders turn left before starting on the last small climbs before the finish, there were closed mines. I grew up in an industial area, and is nostalgic when it comes to industry. I find closed down industry depressing.

The  World Atlas of Wine

1845336895If you will have only one book on wine, “The World Atlas of Wine”, by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson is the one you should have. It is a classic, and it is now in its seventh edtition. It is a beautiful book with nice maps and excellent content. It covers the entire world,  but still with an emphazis on "The Old World".

Buy it from Amazon UK or  Amazon US.

Wine Atlas of Germany

You will find the most detailed information on German wine districts and vineyards in "Wine Atlas of Germany". Here you will find detailed information. But there is a problem, and in my opinion a serious problem. The English version is an English 2014-translation of a German book published in 2007.  The English edition is not updatede compared to the German edition. This is what makes the problem serious. German wine classificaton was changed in 2012. This is mentioned in the introduction to the English version. They knew that the book was outdated at the time of publication of the English version. Then, what is the point? If you cannot update, why publish the outdated book? We get nice, detailed maps. The vineyards are still located and named as they were in 2007. But the classification and other information about these vineyards are outdated. The maps of German wine districts in i Hugh John­son and Jancis Robinson “The World Atlas of Wine” are more updated, but less detailed..

Buy from

Tom Stevenson: Christie's World Encyclopedia of Champagne & sparkling wine

1402772246This book is the international refernce when it comes to sparkling wines. The title says Champagne & sparkling wine, and it should come as no surprise that champage get the broadest coverage. Og the book'a 500 pages, 150 are dedicated to champagne, 50 to a general introduction to sparkling wine, and 300 pages to sparkling wines from other regions than Champagne. More than 1600 wines are rated.

Buy it from Amazon UK or Amazon US.

 

The Oxford Companion to Wine

0198705387If you want to have a more encylopedic book on wines, Jancis Robinsons and Julia Child: The Oxford Companion to Wine is the one to have. It is an encyclopedia of wine, with articles on not everything, but as close as you can get in one volume. It is written by on of the world's leading experts on wine.

I have the third edition, published in 2006. It is now in its foruth edition, published in 2015. A lot has happened in the wine business since 2006. So maybe I should get myself a copy of the most recent edition. It is available in hardcover edition and Kindle edition. When reading a book from beginning to end, I like Kindle. But when jumping around from one article to another, I prefer the paper version. An e-version of a book like this should be organized like a database, not as a "book".

Order from Amazon US: Kindle edition, or Hardcover edition.

Order from Amazon UK: Kindle edition, or Hardcover edition.

 

Tour de France 2017

Tour de France
Giro d'Italia

 

 

 

Wine and some other drinks of Tour de France 2017: Stage 2. Düsseldorf — Liege

Tony Martin did not satisfy his home fans. It was sad to see Alejandro Valverde and Ion Izagirre  crash out of the race.

Today some riders will go in a break away, and will try to get points to get the polka dot jersey. But the stage will probably end in a bunch spirnt.

As I wrote in the introduction to this year’s Tour, I was disappointed when I learned that stage 2 should go to Belgium and Liege. Belgium is the world’s most interesting beer country. To quote “World Atlas of Beer”:

“Belgium is to beer what France is to wine or the Scottish Highlands is to whisky.”

But the Tour has often been visiting Belgium. We were in Belgium in 2010, 2012, 2015 and now in 2017. It has been confirmed that the Grand depart 2019 will be in Brussels. Antwerpen is biddng to be the city for the Grand Depart in 2020. So there will be many oporutnities to taste Belgian beer.

The Tour has not visited Germany since 1987. When we finally are here again, we could have stayed a bit longer. I had hoped that stage 2 and stage 3 would go through some wine districts in Germany, either Mosel or along tha Rhine river. I will cheat a bit. I am going to write about German wine and a selction of Belgian beer. We will be close to the river Mosel tomorrow, so I will come back to Mosel then.

As a beer country, Belgium is in som way the polar oposite to Germany. Germany had the Reiheigsgebot, and beer could only be made from barley malt (wheat was accepted too), hops, yeast and water. No other ingrediences were allowed. Germany have had and still has many local and regional breweries, but German beers have been variations within a restricted framework. In Belgium, brewers were free to do as they wanted. It has been said that Belgium, they are brewing more than 400 different types of beer. One may argue what is a type of beer, and what are two versions of the same beer. But we will not go into that. But every time I see this figure, I think of the French president Charles de Gaulles, who once said that it is impossible to govern a country with 400 cheeses. Belgium has proven that it is much more difficult to govern a country with 400 beers. In Belgium, there is at tradition for adding spices, fruit etc to the beer, which could not be done under the German Reiheitsgebot.

Through the history, Belgium has been invaded many times. It has been said that a Belgian way of resistance has been to keep and maintain local traditions, in brewing as in many other aspects of life.

Also in Belgium, a large proportion of the beer being drunk is bottom fermented lager. The ubiquitous Stella Artois and Jupiler are boring, industrially produced lager. Jupiler is made in Liege. But it is not these beers that has made Belgium an interesting beer country. So we leave them alone.

On the road to Liege, not long after having crossed the German – Belgian border, we pass realtively close to two berweries that are worth mentioning. The first is Brasserie Grain d’Orge, in Hombourg. I must admit that this is a brewery I do not know. There are other breweries who are also brewing beers labeled Grain d’Orge, so here there can be some confusion. Her is a rating from Beeradvoat of beer from Brasserie Grain d’Orge. Here is another rating from Ratebeer.

The other brewery is Val Dieu in Aubel. Val Dieu means valley of God. Val-Dieu Abbey is a former Cistersienser Monastry. The monsatry was established in 1216. Through the history, it has been destroyed and rebuilt many times. But the monastry was closed in 2001. On their website, Aubel claims to be the only authentic Abbey beer in Belgium. The beer is brewed within the old monastry, in the tradition after the old Abbey. I take the claim about autentic abbey beer with a grain of salt, or maybe I should choose some salted nuts with the beer.

Brewing is an old tradition in Belgian monstries. It was partly to make an income, but also for the monks. In the old days, the water was often contaminated and could be dangerours to drink. It was better to drink beer than water.

Today, there are many breweries with names after monstries. A well known example is Grimbergen. Monks in the Norbertine monstry a bit north of Brussels, started their brewing in 1128. They were known for their hospitality and their beer. When France invaded Belgium at the end of the 18th century, they closed the monstries.Then the brewing also stopped. Later, the monstry was reestablished, but they did not take up brewing. The monks bought their beer from local breweries.

In 1958 Brouwerij Maes contacted the monastry, and asked if they could market a dark beer they had developed, under the name “Grimbergen”. Until 1978 the beer was brewed in Waterloo. Later, the production was moved to Brouwerij van Alken in Alken. Maes was taken over by Heineken in 2008, and the trade mark “Grimbergen” was sold to Carlsberg. But Heineken got a long lasting license to sell beer in Belgium under the name. Beer sold as Grimbergen outside Belgium is brewed at Kronenbourg in Strasbourg, far from any Belgian monstry. When they call it Abbey Beer, “Biére d’Abbaye”, with the year 1128, is is a “truth” with many modification, maybe an “alternative fact” in today’s terminology. On the label of the Grimbergen beer I from time to time buy in France, which is brewed in Stasbourg, it says: “Brassée dans la tradition de l’Abbaye”, meaning “brewed int the tradition of the Abbay”. This is not really true, either. But if I buy a beer from from one of the large industrial breweries, which you often get in pubs and bars at airports, I prefer Grimbergen over Heineken. This is ofte the choice we have, at least at many French airports.

AffligemBlondAffligem is another “Abbey beer”, not brewed in a monastry. The monastry Affligem was established in 1074, in today’s Belgium. It is documented that they were brewing beer in 1129, and that the brewing continued for a few hundred years. The monastry had a very strategic location at the top of a hill, and it was destroyed many times in several wars. After the French Revolution, the French government wanted to strip the Catholic Church from their power. They closed monstaries and confiscated their property. When looking at the property of the Church and the monastries, it is easy to understand that kings and other rulers had other reasons than religion to fight the Catholic Church and their institution. They were not only stripped for power, but for property as well. The Affligem monastry was closed in 1796. The remains was bought by some monks in 1868, who rebuilt it. The brewing started in 1885, and the rebuilding of the monstry was completed in 1887. The brewing continued to 1940. Then they shared fate with many other Belgian breweries. After the Belgian capitulation, they were forced to give their copper kettles to the German occupanst, who needed the copper for their arms industry.

In 1956 they started to cooperate with the small, local brewery De Smedt. Today Affligem is brewed by De Smedt, in close cooperation with the monks in the monastry. The monastry owns the trade mark Affligem, and all changes, new types of beers etc, must be accepted by the monastry. But the brewery De Smedt is now owned by Heineken, who is doing the marketing and distribution of Affligem.

Leffe_blondThe probably most well known Belgian “Abbey beer” is Leffe. The Abbey (I do not really know the difference between a monstary and an Abbey in this context), was established in 1152, close to Namur in Vallonie (the French speaking part og today’s Belgium). As in so many other Abbeys, they were brewing beer, mainly made from ingrediences growing in the wild close to the Abbey. As so many abbeys, it has been destroyed and rebuilt many times through the history. After the French revolution, the abbey was destroyed and abandoned. In 1902, some monks returned to the abbey. In 1952 they took up brewing in close cooperation with the Flemish brewery Lootvoet. This brewery was later bought by Interbrew, which is part of the world’s largest brewer group, Anheuser-Busch InBev, which is based in Belgium. Today, all Leffe beers are brewed by Stella Artois in Leuven. But the Leffe abbey still gets royalies from the sale of Leffe beer.

There are some secular breweries established in monastries, brewing in the names of the monastries. Val Dieu is in this category. If you want authentic abbey beer, you should go for the Trappist beers, brewed in Trappist monastries in accordance with the regulations set for Trappist beers. But there are noe Trappist breweries along today’s stage, so we will not open any bottles of Trappist beer today.

Back to Val Dieu. They brew the kind of beers that are well known in Belgium: Blond, Brown (Bruin) and Triple. In addition to these beers, they brew a Grand Cru, a Winter Ale and a Cuvé 800.

If we had crossed the German – Belgian border a bit further south, we could have seen one of the border phenomens I find interesting. There is a Belgian corridor through what is else German territory. I do not remember the details of the history here. It was a Belgian railway line, that Belgium kept as their territory. Belgium once had one of the world’s tightes knit railway networks. But as with so many countries, the wanted to be “modern” after the second world war, and went for roads and cars. The railroad was closed down. Now it is a cycling path. Old railroads make good cycling paths.

We were here some years ago. It was not good cycling conditions this time. But it was mid March, and much more snow than usual this time of the year. We were driving from Maastricht in the Netherlands to Metz in France. The purpose of the trip was to find geocaches in five different countries in one day (the Netherlands, Germany, Belgium, Luxembourg and France). It was with mixed feelings I picked up a rental car with summer tyres at the airport in Brussels, when there was a fair amount of snow in Belgium. We Norwgians are used to drive in winter conditions, but with cars equiped for winter driving.

But back to Germany, the Rhine and German wine. The Rhine river starts in the Swiss Alps, at Oberalppass.

Men jeg vil tilbake til Tyskland og Rhinen, og til tysk vin. Selv om syklistene ikke får med seg vinen, tar vi en avstikker for å smake på noen edle dråper.

The Rhine starts in the Swiss Alps, at Oberalppass. The cycling route EuroVelo 15, the Rhine route, follows the Rhine river from its humble start in the Swiss Alps to where it flows out in the North Sea at Hoeck van Holland, a bit outside of Rotterdam. I cycled most of this route last summer. 1300 km in two weeks, a little more than a family holliday on bicycle. But you can cycle parts of this route. If you like to climb, you can ride up to the top. Or you can do as I did: Take the train to Oberalppass, and start from the top.

Part of the Rhine is the border between Switzerland and Germany, from Bodensee to Basel. From here, it goes straight north with France (Alsace) along the left bank to the east, and Germay (Baden) along the right bank to the east. Here, I turned away from the river, to visit the wine areas in Alsace, a bit further to the west. I returned to the Rhine a bit before I came to Strasbourg. Near Karlsruhe, the border turns 90 degrees west, and from here the Rhine flows through Germany until it reaches the Netherlands. At Mainz and Wiesbaden, the Rhine turns west. North of the Rhine, from Wiesbaden to Rüdesheim, we have Rheingau, which is the best wine region in Germany. (People in Mosel may object to that, we are coming back to Mosel tomorrow). Rheingau is the brown-orange area on the map.

Rheingau is the home of Riesling. In this region, riesling can give wines from light, dry and fresh, to the extreme rich and sweet trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling gives best result in regions where it is not too warm, like in Germany, Austria, France (Alasace), and some places in New Zeeland. A good reisling can be kept for a long time.

When I was in Alsace last summer, the producers had conficence in the 2014 vintage. When he who served med wine at Balthazar Ress in Rheingau was hesitating if he should serve me 2014 or 2015, I told him this. His reply was almost like this: “In Alsace, it is too warm for riesling. For them, a rather cool year like 2014 was good. For us, 2015 was better.” I did not know the neither the vintages nor the wines good enough to argue against this.

At Rüdesheim/Bingen the Rhine turns north. From here to Koblenz we ride through Mittlerhein, the most beautiful part of the Rhine, with the famous Lorelei cliff.

I Koblenz the two rivers the Rhine and Mosel flows together at Deutches Eck, (Germany’s corner).

I am planning a visit to Mosel tomorrow, so we sail past this river today. North of Koblenz, we enter the Ruhr district, the more industrialised part of the Rhine. Here it is industry and commercial ports, often causing the bicycle path to be moved av bit away from the river.

If we continue downstream, we come to Bonn and Cologne, before returning to Düsseldorf.

German wine can be a bit difficult to navigate. German wines are divied into four quality levels: Deutscher Wein, Landwein, Qualitätswein (QbA) and Prädikatswein. The latter category is subdivided according to the ripeness (sugar content) of the grapes:
Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. In the first three categories, there are dry, semi dry and fruity/sweet wines. In the three last categories, there are only sweet wines.

We are in Rheingau. The oldest wine producer is Schloss Johannisberg. There they have been producing wine for 900 years. I have often been buying wine from Schloss Johannisberg, but I did not visit them when cycling in Rheingau last year. There is not time for everything.

I visited two producers in Rheingau last summer. I could have spent a lot more time there. The first was Kloster Eberbach.

They have vineyards many places, sometimes only part of a vineyard, sometimes the entire vineyard. Here Kloster Eberbach has put on display samples of the soil from various vineyards.

If you visit Kloster Eberbach just to taste, without buying anything, you have to pay for each glass. If you buy wine, what you paid for the glasses will be deductet from what you pay for the wine. I think this is a good system. Then you can taste their wine, without feel any pressure to buy anything. I was cycling, and could not cary some bottles of wine in addition to the luggage I already had.

The next producer I visited was Balthazar Ress. I had been to a tasting of their wines in Oslo some years ago. It is always nice to visit them at home. When I entered the tasting room, I told he who pas presenting the wines that I was cycling, and could not buy any wines. No problem, said he, and startet serving wine. When I had made it clear in the beginning that I would not buy anything, I did not feel an pressure to buy anything. Here are the wines I tasted at Balthazar Ress.

If we want to understand German wines, we must know the dristrict, the producer and the quality designation. And for the best wines, we must know the vineyard, almost as in Burgundy. The wine Balthazar Ress served as their standard wine, von Unserem, is labeled Rheigau riesling. This wine can come from any part of Rheingau.

We can user their Rüdesheim Berg Rottland GG as an example. som eksempel. On the top is the name of the producer. Under is the place from where the grapes come, in this case the town Rüdesheim, west in Rheingau. Under is the name of the vineyard vinmarken angitt. Berg tells us that it is a hill, and it is called Rottland. Rottland is a rather steep slope, ca 33% inclination, that gets a lot of sun.

GG means Grosses Gewächs, which says the same as Grosse Lage. It is almost as Grand Cru in France. On the level below we have Erste Lage, almost as Premier Cru if we had been in France.

Under the name of the vinyard is named riesling and that it is dry (trocken).

One of the most exclusive vineyards in Rheingau is Erbach Markobrunn. It is a small vineyard. Only a few producers have a part in this vineyard, among them Kloster Eberbach and Balthazar Ress.

As I have mentioned, I cycled along the Rhine last summer, from where it starts in the Swiss Alps, to where it flows out in the North Seaat Hoek van Holland, west of Rotterdam. If you should cycle a part of it, I will recommend the part from Bingen to Koblenz. Wiesbaden is close to Frankfurt. Get there, spend a few days with good wine in Rheingau, before cycling the Mittlerhein. Mittlerhein from Bingen to Koblenz is a beautiful area, and it is good place for cycling. The trip is ca 70 km. If you do not want so cycle, you can go by boat.

You of course alos go by car or by train. But then you are going too fast.

The World Atlas of Beer

This is the book I usually recommend as a global guide to beer. The second edition was published in 2016. It is an informative and beautyfully illustrated book. I only wish it could have had many more pages.

Order from

Wine Atlas of Germany

You will find the most detailed information on German wine districts and vineyards in "Wine Atlas of Germany". Here you will find detailed information. But there is a problem, and in my opinion a serious problem. The English version is an English 2014-translation of a German book published in 2007.  The English edition is not updatede compared to the German edition. This is what makes the problem serious. German wine classificaton was changed in 2012. This is mentioned in the introduction to the English version. They knew that the book was outdated at the time of publication of the English version. Then, what is the point? If you cannot update, why publish the outdated book? We get nice, detailed maps. The vineyards are still located and named as they were in 2007. But the classification and other information about these vineyards are outdated. The maps of German wine districts in i Hugh John­son and Jancis Robinson “The World Atlas of Wine” are more updated, but less detailed..

Buy from

The  World Atlas of Wine

1845336895If you will have only one book on wine, “The World Atlas of Wine”, by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson is the one you should have. It is a classic, and it is now in its seventh edtition. It is a beautiful book with nice maps and excellent content. It covers the entire world,  but still with an emphazis on "The Old World".

Buy it from Amazon UK or  Amazon US.

Tour de France 2017

Tour de France
Giro d'Italia

 

Wine and some other drinks of Tour de France 2017: Stage 1. Prolog in Düsseldorf

This year’s Tour starts with a 14 km individual time trial. There is pressure on the shoulders of the German time trial specialist Tony Martin. The home fans expects him to win, and that he will start in the yellow jersey tomorrow. The winner of today’s stage will most likely be in yellow until stage three or maybe stage four.

For a grand opening, we must have some music. Robert Schumann is a composer I associate with Düsseldorf. He was not born here, but it was here he ended his career in a tragic way. Robert Schumann was born in 1810, and was one of the leading German composer in the high romantic period. His parents wanted to lead the young Robert away from his obsession with music, and sent him off to Leipzig to study law. If they wanted to avoid that he was distracted by music, Leipzig was not a good choice. Leipzig was an important music city. It was in Leipzib Felix Mendhelson led the famous Gevanthaus-orchestra. It has been said that Robert Schimann never attended a single lecture in law while staying in Leipzig. For me, as a law professor who is very interested in music, it is good to see that talented people like Robert Schumann followed their muse, and not their parent’s advice. Several composers were orginally trained as lawyers. Among them are Peter Tchaikovskij, Igor Stravinskij and Cole Porter. Paul Simon dropped out of Brooklyn Law School before he graduated. We should all be glad for the music they have given the world, and that they did not end up in public administration or in a law firm.

Robert Schumann was an interesting and rather tragic figure. He had a piano teacher in Leipzig, Frederic Wiecks, who promised that Robert would be one of the best piano virtuosos. He put Robert throhg rigerous finger exercises, that eventually injured his fingers which put and end to his ambitions of being a concert pinaist. Robert fell in love with his piano teacher’s then 16 year old daughter, Clara, and she in him. Frederic Wieck was strongly against this relationship, and did what i could to prevent them from seeing each other. But as with so many parent’s attempts to keep young lovers apart, it was all in vain. When Clara, who was a famous concert pianist, reached mauturity, she would to the court to get the right to marry Robert, despite not having the consent from her father. It was not easy for a woman to marry without her father’s consent in these days. But as it so often happens: Her father gave in.

In 1850, Robert Shumann was appointed music director in Düsseldorf. When he arrived in Düsseldorf, he got awed by the Rhine scenery, and composed his symphony No 3, the Rein symphony, as a tribute to this landscape.

Robert Schumann was not up to his job as music director. He was a bad conductor, and had many conflicts with the musicians in the orchestra. His mental illness got worse. 27. February 1854, he tried to commit suicide. He threw his wedding ring into the Rhine from the Rhine Bridge (not the Rhine Bridge of today, and jumped after. He was saved by a boat man. He was hospitalised in a mental hosppital in Endenich, which is now a quarter in Bonn. He died there in 1956. It is said that it was his syphilis that eventually killed him.

When I was in Düsseldorf last summer, Tour de France had already started to put a mark on the city.

But we must have something to drink. When I was in Düsseldorf, I thought it would be nice to sit here, ringside with a cold beer, and watch the prolog.

But after a closer look at the maps, I realised that the stage would go in the street behind, and not down here.

We are too north to search for lokal wine. So we have to find some local beer. Germany is one of the countries in the world with the largest production of beer. But the beer production is not so dominated by the international and industrial beer giants, as many other countries. In Germany, there has alwas been and still are many local and regional breweries.

There are basically two main types of beer: Top fermented and bottom fermented. Bottome fermeting is the traditional brewing method. The fermenting takes place at almost room temperature. The yeast stays on top. The result is an aromatic beer, usually called ale. If it gets too warm, one cannot brew and mauture beer. In Bavaria, they solved this bye mauturing and storing the beer in caves in the Alps, where the temperature was low. They discovered that the beer was different. The yeast sunk to the bottom. The lower temperature produced a different kind of beer. As it had been stored, it was called lager, the German word for storag. A bottom fermented beer is more easy to control in an industralised brewing process. It should come as no surprise that this became the dominating type of beer.

In Germany they have had the “Beer Purity Law”, or Reinheitsgebot in German, which said that beer could only be made from malt, hops, yeast and water. There are many types of malt, hops and yeast, and the quality of the water varies, giving room for many variations of beer. It was introduced in Bavaria in 1516, and was adopted for the entire Germany in 1971. Bavaria set as a precondition for being part of the united Germany, that this law should be enacted. There was exepction, but I will not go into details. It was abolished in 1989, when EU concluded that is was an obstacle to free trade. But still most German breweries stick to the rules in this law. It has limited the creativity of the brewers, compared to in particular Belgium. Variations of lager are the dominating types of beer brewed i Germany.

A speciality in Düsseldorf is Altbier, meaning old beer. When bottom fermented beer became more common, there was a kind of resistance in this north-western corner of Germany, aganst the perssure from bottom fermented beer, from the south (Bavaria) and the east (Bohemia). They kept on brewing top fermented beer. But it was some kind of a corss fertilization. They kept on bresing top fermented beer. But it was brewed and matured at temperatures slightly lower than what was usual for top fermented beer, but not as low as for bottom fermented beer. Altbier is usually a rather dark, copper coloured beer. It has usually a bit fresher taste than most top fermented beers. The brewery Schumacher in Düsseldorf was the first to call their beer Altbier, when they started in 1833.

If we travel i bit further south, to Cologne, we enter the main area for the beer Kölsch. Kölsch is a top fermented beer, made from pilsner malt. It is almost as a top fermented pils, but this turns out wrong, as pilner is the archetypic bottom fermented beer. It can in many ways resemble Belgian Blond. But there are often some spices in Belgian Blond, which was not allowed under the German Reinheitsgebot. It is still brewed according to the tradition.

We have not arrived in France yet. But I include this now, anyway. France has a rich tradition for graphic novels. There is a huge variety, from comics, history, journalism and novels in this format.

There are manye books in this genre, often misleadingly labeled comic books in English (some are comic, some are not). There are a number of such books on cycling and on wine. I will come back to a few in the three weeks to come. But I will start we these two, published this year. One is historic, about champions of Tour de France. There has been published many graphic books on Tour de France, some comic and some more on history. The other one is Velomaniacs, a comic book on the life in a small, French cycling club, very far from World Tour level.

Order from Amazon FR:

The World Atlas of Beer

This is the book I usually recommend as a global guide to beer. The second edition was published in 2016. It is an informative and beautyfully illustrated book. I only wish it could have had many more pages.

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The Oxford Companion to Beer

0195367138This is a reference work on beer, written in an encyclopedic style. Despite the name "The Oxford Companion ...", is it a US book, having a slight US bias. Having said that, it is a very good book of refernce.

It is available in a hardcover and a Kindle edition. For a book like this, I would go for the paper version.

Buy the hardcover edition from  Amazon UK or Amazon US.

Buy the Kindle edition from Amazon UK or Amazon US.

Tour de France 2017

Tour de France
Giro d'Italia

 

 

Wine and some other drinks of Tour de France 2017: Introduction

This year’s Tour starts in Düsseldorf in Germany. The Tour visits Germany for the first time since 1987.

When doping was riding cycling, also in Germany, Germany said no. German TV stopped broadcasting Tour de France. But now, German riders like André Greipel, John Degenkolb, Tony Martin and Marcel Kittel, have put their mark on Tour de France and other big cycling sport events.

The Tour starts with a prolog in Düsseldorf. We are north of the “wine border”, even though the climate change may move it further north. Even in my country, Norway, there is some wine production. But in Düsseldorf, we have to start with a beer.

I was disappointed when I saw the route from Düsseldorf. I had hoped for stages in Mosel and the wine districts along the Rhine. But the riders are going to Liege in Belgium. There is not much wine along this route. From here, there is a stage mainly in Luxembourg, before the Tour enter France.

After the announcement of Düsseldorf as the city for the grand depart, I had been looking forward to German wines. Belgium it the worlds most interesting beer country, but the Tour has been in Belgium many times, and it is already confirmed that the grand depart will be in Brussels in 2019. But I will not be stopped by that. We will have some Belgian beer, and German wine for stage 2. The river Mosel is for some part the border between Germany and Luxembourg. While the riders are in Luxembourg, we will float downstrem, into Germany during stage 3.

Jeg var skuffet da jeg så ruten videre fra Düsseldorf. Jeg hadde håpet at vi nå skulle kunne ta for oss tysk vin. Men rytterne skal rett fre Düsseldorf til Liege i Belgia, og det er ikke mye vin langs den etappen. Herfra skal rytterne gjennom Luxembourg, før vi kommer inn i Frankrike.

From a wine perspective, the stages 6 and 7 are the more interesting. Stage 6 take us into the little known, but very interesting Aube district in Champagne, and stage 7 will take us into Nuit-Saint-Georges and the heart of Burgundy. Stage 10 will take us to Bergerac, one of many wine districts that is less known as it deserves. We will go for some stronger drinks to stage 11, through Armagnac. Stage 16 will take us to Hermitage in the Rhône valley. As usual, it will be difficult to find wine when the riders are in the mountains. And true to the tradition, it will be champagne for the final in Paris.

The  World Atlas of Wine

1845336895If you will have only one book on wine, “The World Atlas of Wine”, by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson is the one you should have. It is a classic, and it is now in its seventh edtition. It is a beautiful book with nice maps and excellent content. It covers the entire world,  but still with an emphazis on "The Old World".

Buy it from Amazon UK or  Amazon US.

The Oxford Companion to Wine

0198705387If you want to have a more encylopedic book on wines, Jancis Robinsons and Julia Child: The Oxford Companion to Wine is the one to have. It is an encyclopedia of wine, with articles on not everything, but as close as you can get in one volume. It is written by on of the world's leading experts on wine.

I have the third edition, published in 2006. It is now in its foruth edition, published in 2015. A lot has happened in the wine business since 2006. So maybe I should get myself a copy of the most recent edition. It is available in hardcover edition and Kindle edition. When reading a book from beginning to end, I like Kindle. But when jumping around from one article to another, I prefer the paper version. An e-version of a book like this should be organized like a database, not as a "book".

Order from Amazon US: Kindle edition, or Hardcover edition.

Order from Amazon UK: Kindle edition, or Hardcover edition.

 

How to find the best French wines?

I could have added: The best wines in a region or in a category. When I am searching for good wine producers in France, be it to find wines along the Tour de France roue, or wines I would like to taste and maybe buy, I use three books to orient myself. There are (too) many wine producers offering wine tasting. We cannot just visit them randomly. Then we risk to taste a lot of uinteresting wines, and miss the better wines. When I visit a producer and taste their wines, I feel a pressure to buy some wine, despite that I know I can just say merci beaucoup, and leave. It is necessarry to do some research, and find the wine producers to visit. For this purpose, I use the three books. There are three books, published yearly. Now I use the 2017-editions. I always have problems deciding which is the better one, and end up buying all three. Some of the books are available in Kindle, versions, but for this kind of books, I prefer the paper versions. I have to add that these books are in French only.

Le Guide des Meilleurs vins de France

This book is published by the Wine Magazine La Revue du Vin de France. This is in practise my favourite, and the the book in which I start searching first. But I cannot say that it is better than the others

This year's edition covers  1120 producers and  6592 wines.

Buy from

Le Guide Hachette des vins

For me, this is the book I consult as number two. I have no other explanation than that this was the second of these book I got to know. It includes more wines than Le Guide des Meilleurs vins de France

Buy from

Guides des vins. Bettane + Desseauve

I started to buy this book to have all three. As it was the third book I got to know, it has become the third book I consult. But this is a habit, more than a result of critical evaluation.

Buy from

Guides to reasonably pirced wines

There are guidebooks for reasonably priced wines. I have bought a few of them, but has stopped buying them. This does not mean that I am snobbish (or rich), and only drink expensive wines. Most of the wines I am drinking is reasoably priced. Reasonable wines are not excluded from the books mentioned. If there is a resonably priced wine of high quality, you will find them in these books. But I am searching for good wines, not cheap wines. I am not trying to locate a producer because of its cheap wines. Then I choose one of the wines I find in the supermarkets when I am in France.

Some Wine Magazines

In addition to these books, I read about wine in quality newspapers back home in Norway. But I see not point in mentioning the Norwegian newspapers in this English language version. I also read regularly two French wine magazines,  La Revue du Vin de France and Terre de Vins. The latter is published in Languedoc, and has a kind of southern profile. I also read the English wine magazin Decanter.

Tour de France 2017

Tour de France
Giro d'Italia

 

 

Wine and some other drinks of Tour de France 2017: Varied drinking menu

I will continue the search for wines and other drinks along the Tour de France route, in 2017. As the route was presented last Tuesday, we now know what to search for, although the Tour de France oraniser holds back details, meaning that we will have to wait until June 2017 before we have the complete picture.

It has been known for a long time that Tour de France 2017 will start with at Time Trial in Düsseldorf in Germany, and that stage 2 will start in Düsseldorf. But the way from Düsseldorf was not published before last Tuesday.

Continue reading Wine and some other drinks of Tour de France 2017: Varied drinking menu